Calendula Cable Socks (E)

“Calendula Cable Socks”, knit with Wollmeise 100 % Superwash Merino sock yarn in “Kürbis”, size 38/39


You need:

  • One skein of Wollmeise 100 % Merino sock yarn, yardage 350 m / 100 g – or use any other 4-ply sock yarn
  • A set of double pointed needles (dpn) size Nr. 2,5 / U.S. size 1,5
  • A cable needle

Pattern:

Main pattern: the charts are read from the right bottom to the left top.

Repeat round  1 to 16.

Empty boxes = knit

- = purl

ssk = slip two stitches knitwise to the right needle, return to the left needle and knit both stitches through the back of the loops

k2tog = knit two stitches together

Main Pattern

= Slip 3 stitches purlwise onto a cable needle, let the cable needle hang in back of your work as you knit the next 3 stiches; then knit stitches off of the cable needle.

= Slip 3 stitches purlwise onto a cable needle, let the cable needle hang in front of your work as you knit the next 3 stiches; then knit stitches off of the cable needle.

Chart No. 1 – left sock – needle 3

Chart No. 2 – right sock – needle 2


Ribbing / Cuff:

Loosely cast on 60 stitches, join in a ring and be careful not to twist stitches. Divide the stitches evenly on four needles (15 stitches on each needle).

Knit the following fifteen rounds as follows:

k3 – p3

Leg:

Use Chart No. 1 for the left sock and Chart No. 2 for the right one (the right sock cable is a mirror image of the pattern on the left side). The stitches on the other needles are knit in stockinette stitch.

In the first round increase 4 stitches on the cable needle (left sock – needle 3, right sock – needle 2), as you need 19 stitches for the cable pattern.

Knit the leg for four repetitions of the main charts or till the desired leg height is reached.

Heel:

– Heel Flap –

The heel flap is knit back and forth on needle 1 and 4 for 30 rows (usually half the number of stitches used for the sock).  Knit the first and the last stitch on each side and work the remaining stitches as they show (knit on right side, purl on wrong side).

– Heel Turn –

A short-row shaping is used to form the heel turn. It creates a rounded base on the heel.

Knit to the middle on the right side of the heel flap. Set stitch marker.

Work the heel turn as follows:

(1) RS (from center): K1, ssk, K1, turn

(2) WS: Sl1, P3, P2tog, P1, turn

(3) RS: Sl 1, K4 (to within 1 st of gap), ssk, 1 M re, turn

(4) WS: Sl1, P5 (to within 1 st of gap), P2tog, P1, turn

Continue knitting this way, until all side stitches are worked. End on WS – turn and knit to the stitch marker.

Now the stitches are divided on 4 dpn (with 8 stitches on each “heel needle”).

– Gusset –

Start knitting in rounds again, the beginning of the round is now at the center back (where you set the stitch marker).

Needle 1: Knit the 8 heel stitches and pick up 15 stitches from the side of the heel flap = 23 stitches.

Needle 2 and 3: Work in main pattern.

Needle 4: Pick up 15 stitches from the side of the heel flap and knit the remaining 8 heel stitches = 23 stitches.

Work the gusset decrease as follows:

R 1:

Continue knitting in main pattern (stockinette stitch on needle 1 and 4, cables or stockinette stitch on needle 2 and 3). In the first decrease round knit through the back loop of the picked up stitches  to create a twisted stitch and avoid gaps.

R2 (decrease round):

Nd. 1: Knit to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1

Nd. 2 and 3: work in main pattern

Nd. 4: K1, SSK, knit remaining stitches.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there are again 15 stitches on each heel needle.

Foot:

Continue knitting in main pattern on the pattern needle and in stockinette stitch on the other needles until desired length is reached (here ~ 20,5 cm from heel).

Toe:

The toe is knit in stockinette stitch.

In the first row the additional cable stitches on the cable needle have to be reduced to 15 stitches. Decrease 4 stitches on needle 3 of the left sock and on needle 2 of the right sock (cable needle with 19 stitches) by knitting two stitches together = 15 stitches on each needle.

Round 1:

Knit around.

Round 2:

1. needle: knit until there are 3 stitches left, k2tog, knit the last stitch

2. needle: knit one stitch, SSK, knit the remaining stitches

3. needle: knit until there are 3 stitches left, k2tog, knit the last stitch

4. needle: knit one stitch, SSK, knit the remaining stitches

Continue in that way until there are 5 stitches remaining on each needle.

Finishing:

Use the kitchener stitch to graft the toe closed and weave in ends.

Adjust to other sizes by using more or less stitches on the three needles without the cable pattern.

Calendula Cable Socks at Ravelry:

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7 Gedanken zu „Calendula Cable Socks (E)

  1. Pingback: Calendula nigra « Ingrids Strickpraxis

  2. Prunila

    I got atracted by your socks because of the name -I fan of calendula!- but … hey! they look really interesting to knit.
    And I love the color too :)
    Thank you to post this pattern!

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  3. Pingback: Sheri at The Loopy Ewe » First Quarter 2011 Challenge

  4. Lumikki

    Hallo “Wollhuhn”,
    ich bin eine Sockenstrickanfängerin und möchte mich das erste Mal an Mustersocken wagen. Ich habe mir deine Calendula-Socken ausgesucht und dazu gleich eine Frage: ich habe Schuhgröße 37. Nehme ich dann trotzdem dieselbe Maschenzahl und stricke einfach den Fuß kürzer? Oder wird das dann zu weit?
    würde mich über eine kleine Hilfestellung freuen!
    LG,
    Lumikki

    Antworten
    1. Wollhuhn

      Ich habe die Calendula selbst noch nie in einer kleineren Größe gestrickt – ich würde auf jeden Fall die Maschenzahl auf den Nadeln, auf denen KEIN Muster gestrickt wird, reduzieren. Leider musst Du wirklich ausprobieren, was für Dich die richtige Maschenzahl ist. Ich würde einfach mal einen Mustersatz stricken und dann anprobieren.

      Liebe Grüße
      Tanja

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